What's The Difference Between Open Frame & Closed Frame Panels? What exactly comes to mind when people say panel display or monitor? Many tend to think of closed frame displays without realizing that it is just one of the possible configurations available. A closed frame display can simply be described as a monitor with a front bezel and is fully enclosed just like most consumer grade LCD monitors. Even many of the industrial grade touch monitors and panel PCs are closed frame displays. Some good examples that one can find are public kiosks, point of sales terminals, and ticketing booths, all of which utilize basic or generic enclosures. But what happens when there is a specific enclosure that one wishes to insert into the display? Perhaps, that enclosure is designed to have specific function or is aesthetically built to be compatible with their brand. Would one then have to remove the display from its existing enclosure, discard it and then insert the display into their exclusive enclosure? At first glance, this might not seem like such a big deal. One can simply take a regular closed frame consumer grade desktop monitor and remove the display from its casing. Sounds like an inexpensive and cost effective solution, right? Well, let’s explore this a little bit further now. Say there is a need to build kiosks for over a thousand locations. This means we have to include the cost of installation and dismantle labor for more than a thousand monitors. But keep in mind that these consumer grade desktop monitors are not industrial grade and are not meant to function outside of their enclosure nor they are intended to be operated 24/7 like most kiosks. What happens if you have to place the kiosks outdoors? Will it still be able to display properly even when the original enclosure is removed? Can it withstand the harsh conditions and still be able to operate normally? Industrial Panel PC Open Frame Solution Removing a display from a consumer grade monitor is not actually the smartest idea. This is where an open frame display can be considered as a perfect solution to the problem. Open frame monitors and touch panels do not have any enclosure such as bezel or housing. Just like the consumer grade desktop monitors, open frame displays come in numerous screen sizes as well as aspect ratios, resolutions and brightness. It is simply a stripped-down version of an LCD panel with just enough support structure and protection in which its internal components are fastened within its metal chassis. Although the open frame displays are significantly more expensive than the consumer grade monitors, the industrial grade components and higher grade LCD panels are quite substantial in durability and performance. Moreover, open frame displays provide greater flexibility by simply inserting additional components inside its chassis to support its application. Existing components can also be easily replaced if they fail and are upgradeable since all components are industrial grade. And since these components are of industrial grade, the unit is more rugged and durable compared to a typical desktop monitor. This allows incremental revisions to a unit rather than having to replace the entire display. What cannot be overstated is the open frame’s lack of enclosure. This gives the integrator the freedom to create their custom-designed enclosure. Some obvious examples which can be seen every day are cabinets with embedded touch monitors, recessed walls, or tables used for digital signage applications including store front displays, photo booths, arcade games, and even advertising billboards. VESA Standards For Panel PC Mount Whether one is considering the traditional closed frame or industrial open frame display to be their optimal solution for their application; one must also take into account on how they will manage to mount their display. Most closed and open frame industrial panels provide a panel mount. However, there may be instances in which the panel display needs to be mounted from the rear. This type of mounting interface for a panel PC is usually not some arbitrary design. If that is the case, then mounting the panel display could very well be the most difficult part in designing your application. The Video Electronics Standards Association, better known as VESA, provides technical standards for panel mounts which is usually referred to as a VESA mount. This standard is defined by 7 sizes each with more than one variant. By having such standard, it allows the integrator to design their enclosure to adhere to a particular VESA mount to help simplify the process. For many of today’s demand on digital signage applications, a closed frame industrial panel PC might just be the answer. However, it is important that the touch panel is reliable and durable even in high touch operating environments, as well as rugged enough to endure harsh conditions. For other integrators, the option of having an open frame solution can minimize workload and eliminate unnecessary disassembly, plus it can also ease the process of designing their enclosure to integrate with the panel. Furthermore, the panel mount minimizes the frustration of having to design the enclosure, knowing there is a set of VESA standard mount to take into consideration. By taking advantage of any of these 3 possibilities, you can customize an optimal design and solution for your touch panel application. USB charger A power adapter that generates the 5 volt DC standard required by USB. The amperage varies, typically from .07A to 2.4A. The charger plugs into an AC outlet, and a USB cable plugs into the charger. USB ports on computers have an upper limit of 500 milliamps; however, USB chargers that come with cellphones and other devices handle one or more amps. The devices sense when they are connected to a computer versus the charger and regulate their current draw. USB chargers connect to the cable via a Type A USB socket. Geared to the device, the cable has a smaller plug at the other end What's Inside Open up a typical charger and you find a couple of chips and several discrete components. Chargers Are Everywhere Passengers can charge their devices by plugging them into this USB port on the back of the seat in front of them. DO Choose the Right Type of Extension Cord for Your Needs Extension cords fall into three broad categories: occasional use, frequent use, and rugged use. To make sure you find the right types of extension cords for your needs, check the packaging or the cord itself for these designation letters: indicates general-use cord goods for indoor applications. indicates a cord designed for outdoor use. The biggest difference between indoor and outdoor extension cords is the insulation. Outdoor versions have bright orange rubber, plastic, or vinyl covers, while indoor cords are much less heavy-duty. means the cord has standard 300-volt insulation. If you see no J designation, the cord is designed for heavier use with 600-volt insulation. indicates a household extension cord with parallel wire construction. means the cord jacket is made of vinyl thermoplastic. means the cord jacket is made of thermoplastic elastomer rubber (TPE). indicates an oil-resistant cord. DO Buy Three-Prong Plug Extension Cords Standard extension cords are available with either two or three prongs. One prong is “hot,” the second is “neutral,” and the third serves as a path to the ground wire. This third prong drastically reduces the risk of shock and electrical fires by giving power surges a safe place to dissipate. Of course, you can only use three-prong extension cords with three-prong outlets. If your home has outdated electrical wiring, you may need to upgrade it before converting your outlets to newer three-prong versions designed for enhanced electrical safety. DON’T Overload Your Extension Cords Extension wire has a maximum amperage rating, or a limit of electrical current it can safely conduct. Check the device you plan to connect and choose an extension cord with an amp rating higher than the device. If you plan to connect multiple devices, add up all amp requirements to ensure you don’t overload the extension cord. Tip: If the power requirement on a device is listed in watts, divide the wattage by 110 to convert the rating to amps. If the cord you’re considering doesn’t give an amp rating, you can calculate its current capacity by its wire gauge. The lower the gauge, the higher the wire’s capacity. Follow these guidelines: A 16-gauge extension cord is for light duty applications (holiday lights, portable fans, hedge trimmers, etc.). A 14-gauge cord is for medium duty applications (lawnmowers, power drills, table saws, etc.). A 10- to 12-gauge cord is for heavy and extra heavy duty applications (chainsaws, circular saws, shop vacs, air compressors, etc.). In addition to amperage and gauge, you should also consider cord length when choosing the right type of extension cord. Longer cords create more electrical resistance and deliver less power to the connected device. It’s best to use a cord of the proper length to reduce power loss, especially if you’re using a device with a high amperage rating. DON’T Plug Sensitive Electronics into Ordinary Extension Cords Extension cords and surge protectors are not the same things. The purpose of a surge protector is to divert or block excess power by grounding it. Even minor surges could damage sensitive electronics, so plugging them into surge protectors (or extension cords with built-in surge protection) is vital.