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• Создано: 12-07-22
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hengyuwooden.com

Описание: hengyuwooden.com    For some years now, wood has received an increasing amount of attention in the construction industry. With concerns raised about sustainability and the carbon footprint of buildings, new construction methods and innovative possibilities in the use of timber have developed rapidly. This interest in wood stems in part from its renewability, though this benefit is contingent on sustainable logging and the appropriate management of forests to be allowed to regenerate naturally. However, it is the versatility of wood that serves as the primary impetus for its widespread use. From boards, to beams, to floors, and even to thermal and acoustic tiles and insulators, wood can be used in several different stages of a single project and with different degrees of processing and finishing. These boards have various of usages, for example they can be used as construction wood board, furniture wood board and decoration wood board. They can even be used for fitness, fitness equipment and wooden crafts.      In the case of the manufacture of furniture, wall coverings, ceilings, and even floors, the use of boards is an economical and functional way of incorporating wood into buildings. There are several options for wooden boards on the market, and each uses a different manufacturing process involving fibers, particles, fragments, or sheets, resulting in specific uses. Next, we select the most commonly used wooden boards, including their characteristics and main uses: MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard)   MDF boards are made of wood fibers bonded by synthetic resin and compressed through pressure and heat, resulting in a solid and very uniform board with good finish and durability. Because the fibers are randomly oriented, the machine can cut them in any direction, delivering a smooth surface to the touch. Naturally, the board does not resist water well, but there do exist options on the market that are more resistant to moisture and sometimes even fire. Chipboard and MDP (Medium Density Particleboard  Chipboard is created by pressing wood debris, such as sawdust and dust, with resin and glue. Over time, this material has given way to other solutions such as the MDF or its nearest replacement, the MDP. It can be finished with paints and varnishes, but they rarely stick, since the surface is not smooth or uniform. The main advantage of this agglomerate is its low cost. Its uses are similar to MDF, but specific types of hardware and connections must be used to obtain a satisfactory result. The resulting panels are widely used in the production of simple furniture.   Plywood boards are made of overlapping wood sheets glued perpendicularly and heat pressed. Just as with cross laminated timber (CLT), cross-directional fibers in plywood allow the board to withstand greater stress. Plywood's use is quite varied. It can be used for furniture, floors, ceilings, doors, and countertops among others. It is also compatible with paints and glues of natural sheets or melamine.   And there are still many other types of wood boards like solid wood board, paulownia wood board, poplar wood board, etc.

Дата Публикации: 12-07-22

gms-industrial.com

Описание: gms-industrial.com A dry cabinet, also called dehumidifying cabinet or dry box, is a storage solution used to protect sensitive items from excess humidity. These devices are used across many industries, but they are particularly popular for sensitive camera equipment storage. The main issue dry cabinets serve to fight is fungal growth. Cameras and camera lenses are susceptible to fungus given the right conditions – darkness and excess humidity.    Dry cabinets come in various shapes and sizes and there are different technollogies available, such as dehumidifying cabinet, electronic dry cabinet, dry nitrogen cabinet, baking dry cabinet, etc. As opposed to it's name, a dry cabinet's purpose is not to provide an environment devoid of any humidiy, as this might actually be detrimental to the equipment encased within. Much like a cigar humidor, the dry cabinet’s job is to maintain an optimal relative humidity. Most dry boxes are equipped with a hygrometer to allow you to check the humidity level inside.  Dry boxes can be broadly divided into two categories: active and passive. A passive model utilizes a dessicant inside an airtight sealed box, and typically offers limited control over the humidity level. These boxes require no electricity to operate, but need regular dessicant changes (or reactivation for multiple-use dessicant), especially when activelly used. Therefore, a passive dry box is a good solution when power consumption is an issue, for example in an off-the-grid application. For regular home use, an active dry cabinet is generally a simpler and more effective solution.    The typical active dehumidifying cabinet is an enclosure with electronic humidity control that automatically maintains a stable relative humidity (RH) at a preset level. Simpler models usually feature a small Peltier element to condense and remove the air-bourne moisture. More advanced models operate using multi-porous molecular sieve desiccants with automatic regeneration mechanisms. Electronic dry boxes are much more precise and reliable than passive models, but do require a constant power source.  Whether or not you need a dry cabinet depends on your location, climate, gear and use patterns. Climate is generall the number one factor determining the need of such a device. If you live in a warm, humid climate like Southeast Asia or equatorial states, chances are a dehumidifying cabinet would be a wise purchase. Even the cooler temperate climate can provide enough moisture to cause trouble in the right conditions, especially in seaside areas.      Usage patterns are the second most important factor when you consider a dry cabinet for your equipment. If you constantly use your gear, day in and day out, the chances of it developing moisture related issues is minimal even in a moderately humid climate. Having the cameras out in the open, in sunlight and air, would usually suffice to prevent fungal growth in all but the most extreme cases. On the other hand, if you find yourself storing your equipment for several months at a time, you might find a nasty surprise under a lens cap one day. The risk of fungus issues increases if you often work in wet, dewey conditions. In a humid environment, gear will accumulate moisture even if kept out of the rain. Putting away equipment in a dark, warm cabinet after such a shoot is a great way to grow some fungi.       Except for dry cabinet, many other customized cabinet solutions also become more and more popular, like heating oven equipment, semiconductor oven, precision oven and automatic tunnel furnace.

Дата Публикации: 12-07-22

evchargerchina.com

Описание: evchargerchina.com  One of the biggest concerns for electric vehicle (EV) owners is knowing when and how to charge their vehicle. It makes sense: The average American has spent their life driving around in gas-powered cars, filling up at one of the hundreds of thousands of gas stations as the gauge creeps towards empty. Charging one's EV takes a little more planning, but with the growing demand and incentives for alternatives to gas-powered cars, public EV charging stations are becoming a more common sight.  So whether you're the owner of an EV or looking to add a public EV charging station to your commercial property, here are just a few things you should know about how an EV charger works.  What Is an EV Charger? Both electric vehicles and plug-in hybrid electric vehicles require an EV charger to keep the battery full, just like any chargeable device or electronic. They always work together with QR Code Payment System. How Does EV Charging Work?  At its most basic, an EV charger pulls an electrical current from either a 240v outlet or the grid it's hardwired to and delivers that electricity to the vehicle, just like any other appliance or device you charge by plugging into the wall.  The EV Chargers can be devided into many different types according to different models such as DC Ev Charger, AC EV Charger, etc. And besides, some other device like EV Charging Power Box, DC Charging Stacks and EV Connectors are all indispensiable for an EV. The interconnect solution is a critical part of EV battery management systems, providing the connections between the battery packs and diagnostic, control, and monitoring systems.   Battery management systems (BMS) are a critical component of an electric vehicle (EV), and are comprised of several subsystems that are each responsible for a specific task. They manage and monitor the battery cells and packs and provide status notification on the health of the batteries.    But that's not all. Battery management systems support a range of functions from data acquisition to safety management systems and since they are comprised of several electronic systems, the interconnect technology becomes a critical part of the system to make connections between the battery packs and diagnostic, control, and monitoring systems.    Of course, there are differnt types of connectors to match different types of chargers and power boxes like DC EV Connectors and AC EV Connectors.

Дата Публикации: 12-07-22

crownchampion.com

Описание: crownchampion.com    Potassium (K) fertilizer is commonly added to improve the yield and quality of plants growing in soils that are lacking an adequate supply of this essential nutrient. Most fertilizer K comes from ancient salt deposits located throughout the world. The word "potash" is a general term that most frequently refers to potassium chloride (KCl), but it also applies to all other K-containing fertilizers, such as potassium sulfate (K?SO?, commonly referred to as sulfate of potash, or SOP). And there are many kinds of sulfate raw material for different usages, such as potassium sulphate, magnesium sulphate, zinc sulphate, ammonium sulphate, etc.   Potassium is needed to complete many essential functions in plants, such as activating enzyme reactions, synthesizing proteins, forming starch and sugars, and regulating water flow in cells and leaves. Often, concentrations of K in soil are too low to support healthy plant growth. Potassium sulfate is an excellent source of K nutrition for plants. The K portion of the K?SO? is no different from other common potash fertilizers. However, it also supplies a valuable source of S, which protein synthesis and enzyme function require. Like K, S can also be too deficient for adequate plant growth. Further, Cl- additions should be avoided in certain soils and crops. In such cases, K?SO? makes a very suitable K source. Potassium sulfate is only one-third as soluble as KCl, so it's not as commonly dissolved for addition through irrigation water unless there's a need for additional S.  Except for sulphate, there are also many nitrate raw materials, and magnesium nitrate is one of the most widely used one.   Magnesium nitrate is an inorganic hygroscopic salt, which is composed of magnesium, nitrogen and oxygen with the chemical formula Mg(NO3)2. It naturally occurs in caverns and mines as nitro magnesite. This is not a common form, although it could be present in places where guano comes in contact with magnesium rich rock. Magnesium nitrate is primarily used as a dehydrating agent or a desiccant, in the preparation of nitric acid. Apart from this, magnesium nitrate is commonly used as a catalyst in the manufacture of fireworks and petrochemicals. It is also used as viscosity adjusters, intermediates and construction materials. This inorganic chemical compound finds applications in the agriculture, printing, chemical and ceramics industries. Fertilizers containing magnesium nitrate are normally used in the hydroponics and greenhouse trade. And there are different kinds of nitrate fertilizer, such as potassium nitrate, calcium nitrate, calcium magnesium nitrate and so on, which all have their own functions.

Дата Публикации: 12-07-22

Dyeing Machines

Описание: Dyeing Machines  The textile dyeing machine is an important part of the dyeing process. So, it is a must to know about different types of dyeing machines and their properties. We know that; dyeing is a process of coloring textile materials to give a nice outlook to grey textile materials. By the reaction between dye solution and textile materials, it becomes colorful. Dyeing is done in a dye bath where a dye solution is made. Different types of material are dyed in the different dye baths. The dyeing process varies depending on the type of material. Types of Dyeing Machines   In ancient times dyeing was done in an open bath but day by day this process is improving with the research of scientists. Now dyeing is done more efficiently than in ancient times. No man can do as he will. Different types of modern equipment are used to dye the materials. Depending on the type of the material following machinery is used: Fiber Dyeing Machine These types of machinery are used to dye fiber. Natural and man-made/synthetic materials can be dyed by these machinery. Generally, fiber dyeing is done less than yarn or fabric dyeing. But dyeing action is more effective than yarn or fabric dyeing. Here fiber molecules are well dyed. Yarn Dyeing Machine  Yarn dyeing is another dyeing process. Generally, yarn dyeing is done for special purposes; like to make designed textile materials. Three types of processing machinery are available for yarn dyeing. They are:    1. Hank dyeing machine: This machine use to dye yarn in hank form. Sewing thread is dyed by this process.    2. Package dyeing machine: This dyeing machine use to dye the yarn in package form.    3. Beam dyeing machine: Here yarn is dyed in beam form.        Fabric Dyeing Machine    Fabric dyeing is the most important sector in the dyeing area. Different types of fabric are dyed by these machinery. Fabrics may be woven, non-woven, or knitted. However, the following machinery is used for fabric dyeing:    1. Jigger dyeing machine: This machine use to dye woven fabric.    2. Winch dyeing machine: In this machine both woven and knitted fabrics are dyed. Specially knit dyeing is done by this machine. Except for these three mentioned above, there are also other kinds like beam dyeing machine, jigger dyeing machine, sample dyeing machine, etc. For fabric processing, dyeing machine is not enough, you may also need rinsing washing machine, printing machine, beam cloth rolling machine and other equipments.

Дата Публикации: 12-07-22

How To Grind Weed Without A Grinder

Описание: How To Grind Weed Without A Grinder   We’ve all been there; you or a friend have some cannabis flower, but you don’t have a weed grinder ready and at your disposal. What do you do? Using unground weed to pack a bowl isn’t ideal as you’ll end up burning away more weed than you smoke and putting unground weed in a rolling paper or blunt wrap won’t work because it will be impossible to get an even burn. The only solution is to find a DIY method for grinding up your flower.    If you find yourself stuck without a grinder, here are a few ways on how to grind weed without a grinder.    If you’re at home, your kitchen should probably be the first spot to check. Many household kitchen appliances can double as a weed grinder in a pinch. If you look hard enough, you can probably find something that will work. Some common examples include:    Coffee Grinder    Coffee grinder which can be used to grind weedAs the name suggests, a coffee grinder is still a grinder when it comes down to it. First things first, make sure you thoroughly clean your coffee grinder of any leftover coffee grounds or coffee bean residue (unless you like smoking coffee with your weed – to each their own).    Make sure to pack the weed in loosely so you don’t damage your grinder and grind away. Similarly, make sure to clean your coffee grinder after you’re finished unless you want your morning coffee to have some extra kick to it tomorrow.    Cheese Grater    This method might take a bit more effort, but it’s just as effective. Make sure your grater is clean, put a plate or a container below it, and get to grating. Make sure to watch your fingers as you grate and be sure to check for leftover bud clinging to the grater’s teeth after you are finished.    Mortar & Pestle    If coffee grinders and cheese graters aren’t at your disposal, maybe it’s time for the classics. If you have a mortar and pestle to use, you will probably want to leave your weed sitting out for a few hours to dry it a bit and make it easier to grind. After that, make sure your mortar and pestle are clean and start applying some elbow grease. Make sure not to grind down too hard.    Cutting Board & Knife    This may be a more laborious method than some of the others, but it is no less effective. If you are without any of the other above appliances, a cutting board and a knife will be no less effective in a pinch. Make sure your knife is sharp and get to julienning up your stash.    Shot Glass & Scissors    Shot glass which can be used to grind weedMaybe you’re at a party and the host doesn’t have luxurious belongings like a fancy “cutting board” or “knife.” Well chances are there are still some shot glasses readily available and a pair of scissors stashed away somewhere, and that’s all you really need.    Put your bud into a (clean – cannot stress that enough) shot glass and start cutting it up in there. If all the shot glasses are currently in use because there’s six different games of quarters going on, you can also just cut up your bud over a plate.    Prescription Bottle & Coins    You may be saying, “That’s all fine and dandy, but what if I’m out of the house? What about the pothead on the go?” Buddy, we’ve got you covered too. If you’ve got some pocket change and a prescription bottle, then you’ve got a DIY shaker. Currency is notorious for carrying germs, so you’ll probably want to wipe down the coins with a sanitizing wipe before starting to be safe.    Put a couple of buds into the prescription bottle or a similar container (make sure not to pack too much in, you want some space), drop in some coins (nickels or quarters are best), fasten the top and start shaking. Check your progress about once every 20 seconds.    Zinc vs. Aluminum: Which Grinder is Best for Your Dispensary?    Dispensaries today sell more than just cannabis. The best smoke shops also sell everything that their customers need to enjoy their favorite flower. A dispensary can quickly make a name for itself by offering high-quality, durable smoking accessories alongside its bud.    Herb grinders are the perfect example of this. Selling them will make it much easier for your customers to enjoy the cannabis that they’ve just purchased from you. But not all grinders are created equal.    Zinc and aluminum are two of the most commonly used materials in grinders. But it can be tough to figure out which you should order for your dispensary. That’s why we’ve created the following guide. Keep reading to learn everything that you need to know about the differences between aluminum and zinc weed grinders.Aluminum vs. Zinc: Quality    Aluminum and zinc are both great materials to use for an herb grinder. If you get them from a reputable dealer, then you should have no problems with the quality of either of these options. That being said, each material does have its own set of benefits that are worth exploring.    Aluminum is lightweight but sturdy, making it a good choice for people who want to take their grinder with them on the go. Zinc is heavier than aluminum. When you pick it up, it feels a bit better in your hands.    At Munchmakers, we use 6061 aircraft-grade aluminum for our aluminum grinders. This ultra-durable material gives our aluminum grinders some of the highest levels of quality on the market.      Aluminum vs. Zinc: Cost    Muchmaker charges the same amount for both its zinc and aluminum grinders. We want you to be able to pick whatever material you like best without having to sacrifice on price.    Other wholesale retailers may do things differently, we’re not sure. What we do know is that we’ll help you save even more money on your next shipment of herb grinders if you buy in bulk. The more you buy from us, the more you save.    Aluminum vs. Zinc: Customizability    Aluminum weed grinders tend to be a bit better for customization. This is because they’re available in several different coatings, such as matte and ceramic, whereas zinc grinders just have one coating option.    You’ll also have more options for customizing your grinders with designs and logos if you buy aluminum. This is because aluminum herb grinders are suitable for both UV printing and laser engraving, whereas zinc grinders are only suitable for UV printing.    Either way, we’ll make it easy for you to customize the grinder that you choose to ensure that it meets your exact specifications.    What to consider before buying a grinder    The process of choosing or buying a   grinder   can be very challenging, especially if you are doing it for the first time. In recent times, companies have tried to capitalize on the mantra initiated by the green rush. They have improved their style of production as they seek to create the best grinders on the market.      Given their extensive uses, there are many companies that manufacturer grinders. This has resulted in the availability of a wide variety of grinders.    There are certain factors you need to consider when buying a grinder. This article discusses these factors extensively, with a guide on how to pick the best grinder.      IT SHOULD BE MADE OF QUALITY ALUMINIUM    It would help if you went for a grinder made of high-quality aluminum. This is the first factor you should consider. Aluminum grinders are recommended because they are not only safer but also durable. They are better than plastic grinders, which can contaminate the product you are grinding. Plastic grinders are not reliable and don’t last long.      This is why you should go for a grinder made of aluminum. With this grinder, you will not have to spend money on repairs or replacements because it will serve you for a long time.      GO FOR A DIAMOND SHAPED GRINDER    It is recommended that you choose a diamond-shaped grinder with razor-sharp teeth. This is particularly important when you intend to use it on smaller pieces. Its edges will effectively facilitate the grinding of particles as they tear through the product. This is better compared to other traditional grinders. By choosing a grinder with a diamond shape, you can be sure of achieving a smooth, uniform, and consistent grind.      KIEF CATCHER CAPABILITIES    It is advised that you buy a grinder with kief catcher capabilities. This is especially important if you are buying a   weed grinder. Go for a grinder with four chambers because they are the best quality. That is the only way you can be sure it has kief catcher capabilities.      This is an essential feature since it allows you to collect the smooth powder at the bottom. In many cases, depending on the product you are grinding, the smooth powder is rich in nutrients. In the case of cannabis, the powder will contain high   THC   levels, which is needed for quality.      THE STORAGE CAPABILITIES    A good grinder should have sufficient storage capabilities. This is advantageous because you will not have to buy a separate storage unit for your grind. It is also essential to use a magnetic lid because it prevents the smell from escaping the grinder. This ensures that your privacy is upheld. You need to consider when buying a grinder is its warranty; it should have an extended warranty.          THE SIZE AND CAPACITY    Before buying a grinder, you need to consider its measurements and determine if it is travel-friendly. You might fancy a grinder that is portable and can easily be moved. A portable grinder makes it easy to use wherever you are. On the other hand, if you intend to use the grinder at a single location, you can choose a larger grinder. Large size grinders are recommended for large-scale grinding sessions. However, they might be costly to maintain and operate.      Smoking Pipe Tobacco: Exposure and Health    Smoking pipe tobacco has been around for centuries. Pipe smoking typically consists of loose leaf tobacco that is fire-cured and burned in a traditional smoking pipe with a bowl and mouthpiece. Although pipe smoking has dwindled over the years, the proportion of regular users varies by state and ranges from 3% to 13%. More surprising, 1.4% of high school students nationwide currently smoke a pipe.    While it is often assumed to be safer than smoking cigarettes, smoking pipe tobacco is still very harmful to the health of the user. Like cigarettes, pipe tobacco contains nicotine and is therefore addictive. In addition, nicotine has a harmful impact on adolescent brain development. This is especially worrisome because 90% of smokers started using tobacco before the age of 18. For pregnant women, nicotine harms the fetal brain and increases the risk of stillbirth and preterm birth. Other harmful effects of nicotine include increased risk for forming a blood clot, lightheadedness, changes in heart rate, and nausea.    Pipe tobacco contains toxic chemicals that increase the risk for some cancers. A study conducted by the prestigious American Association for Cancer Research found that people who smoke pipe tobacco are more likely to develop cancer of the head and neck, liver, and lung.    This risk was higher for people who smoked more often, had smoked for more years, or who inhaled more deeply. Even if users do not inhale, they are still exposed to toxic chemicals in the tobacco smoke released by the pipe. The only way to reduce the risk of these cancers is to quit smoking. Cancer risk decreases over the years following quitting.      Is It Safe to Smoke Out of Metal Pipes?    Whether you’re an avid smoker or you only enjoy it on rare occasions, you want to make sure you have the best experience possible. Unfortunately, there are a lot of factors that can contribute to an unpleasant smoking experience, from low-quality products to malfunctioning devices. Another important thing to consider is the safety of the pipes you’re using to smoke. For example, is it safe to smoke out of metal pipes in Scottsdale, AZ? Keep reading to learn more.    Metal pipe basics    Metal pipes can be made from aluminum, brass or steel. Regardless of the particular material, though, these pipes are designed to be durable and perform reliably. Metal pipes come in many different shapes, sizes, designs and configurations to provide smokers with the desired experience. There are a few factors that make metal such an appealing material for pipes:                        Durability:   One of the most important factors to consider when choosing a pipe is durability. Metal pipes are very durable and are designed to last a long time. They are made of strong materials that hold up to all kinds of circumstances, including being dropped and banged around. Unlike glass pipes, metal pipes won’t break during travel or if they’re accidentally dropped, which makes them a good option for social settings.                                    Maintenance and cleaning:   Another thing that’s important to think about when choosing a pipe is maintenance and cleaning. The good news about metal pipes is that they’re no more difficult to clean than glass pipes. While you don’t need to thoroughly clean your pipes constantly, it’s a good idea to spend a little bit of time on maintenance every time you use your pipe. Dislodge and remove large debris and wipe out the bowl with a wet rag every day to improve the performance of your pipe. Deep clean your pipe every month or so to keep it in the best possible shape and get rid of resin deposits.                Is it safe to smoke out of metal pipes in Scottsdale, AZ?    So, is smoking out of metal pipes in Scottsdale, AZ actually safe? This can be a tricky question to answer, but most people agree that metal isn’t the safest option. Any time metal is heated, it has the risk of transferring chemicals or pollutants to the user’s lungs through smoke. Smoking out of glass minimizes the risk of potential contamination, which is why many people recommend exclusive glass pipe use. While your pipe choice is a matter of personal preference, it’s very important to consider the fact that metal pipes can be harmful before making your selection.    

Дата Публикации: 12-07-22

The best knife sharpeners – and how to use them

Описание: The best knife sharpeners – and how to use them A knife is arguably the most important tool in the kitchen, but   it's essential that the blade is sharp. When blunt, you have less control and are more likely to see the knife slide off the food, thereby making cooking a more hazardous process.      You've acquired a   chef's knife,   you're using it almost daily to make tasty dinners for the family, and it's stored in a nice knife rack or a magnet for safekeeping. So why stop there? Keeping that knife's edge fine will make cooking not only safer but, let's face it, much more fun. Whether you've spent ￡150 on a high-end knife   or under a tenner on a dinky paring knife, keeping it sharp is crucial.      Why, then,   do so many of us shy away from the task? To put it bluntly, it's because it's a rather daunting process for the beginner.   Your image of knife sharpening may   consist of a hyper-masculine chef slashing away violently at a steel rod (we're looking at you, Gordon). Conversely, you might have seen cooks meticulously and methodically stroking their blade up and down a Japanese waterstone with more intricate attention to detail than a Flemish landscape painting.      Fear not, however, because it's not as complicated as it looks. In this review, we'll break down the most common techniques and advise on the best knife sharpeners to give your blade a shiny edge.    Whichever method you choose, be it a waterstone (also known as a whetstone), or a pull-through (either V-shaped or ceramic wheels)   it's important to regularly hone your knife with a honing steel, which we'll also cover below.   You'll be pleased to hear that you won't have to reach for the stones too regularly –   once every two or three months should suffice.      The basic concept of sharpening is simple –   you're using an abrasive edge to remove metal –   but the knife you buy may alter the method you should use. A general rule of thumb   is that a waterstone can be used for both Japanese- and Western-style blades, but you should avoid pull-through sharpeners for Japanese knives (or any knife with very brittle blades).    Waterstones do require   practice – it's a bit of faff, in all honesty, though rather therapeutic once you get the hang of it –   but they'll keep your knife in tip-top condition, so it's worth the extra effort. If you're worried you're doing it wrong, look up your   local knife manufacturer or kitchen shop, as many will offer sharpening classes.      Professional knife sharpening (who and what you need to know)    I recently realized just how incredibly dull my kitchen knives had become. Not only were they not   cutting like they used to, but I could visibly see that there was no real edge left. I knew that I could use my honing rod all I wanted, but that it wouldn’t get me that nice edge back. So, I started searching for a professional knife sharpening in Denver and Boulder.    I didn’t want to go to the mall or some big store. Instead, I was hoping to find someone out there that was passionate about knives and keeping them sharp. Someone that has an eye for blades like I do for how a bespoke suit should fit.    On a warm Tuesday afternoon, he picked up my sad looking knives and promised to sharpen them by the end of the week. Suffice it to say, Jeff overdelivered. When he returned my knives, I couldn’t believe how sharp they were. Suddenly, my knives were doing all the work again, just like they should be.    In the brief amount of time that he and I spoke in person, I realized that there is a lot more to knife sharpening than we all think. Consequently, I knew it would make for a great article.    So, I sat down with Jeff and asked him some questions about sharpening. I think you’ll see that he overdelivered again.                        Don’t cut on anything that is not a cutting board.                Decorative glass cutting boards are not cutting boards. They will dull your knife as soon as the knife makes contact.    Most plates are made of ceramics or glass or some other substance that is harder than your kitchen knives,   don’t cut on them   except with your steak knife (steak knives should be serrated).    If you ding your knife on your granite kitchen counter, you have likely dulled the contact spot.)                        When preparing food don’t use the edge of your knife to slide food, just cut food out of the way. Turn your knife over and slide the food with the back spine of your knife.    I can tell if a person is left or right handed if my customer has this habit.                                    Don’t use knives for anything except their intended purposes, especially paring knives. Paring knives are very thin knives and are not meant for impacting cutting boards. If you use a paring knife as your chef knife, it will dull quickly.                                    The amount of use. It’s simple, the more you use your knife the faster it will dull.                                    Not honing, also known as steeling your knife or honing/steeling improperly.                The type of steel and how hard that steel is made is   a big factor on edge retention. Higher quality knives will usually have a longer edge retention.    Truth About Pull Through Knife Sharpeners    The sad truth about pull through knife sharpeners is that they’re detrimental to your knives.    TOP 8 REASONS NOT TO USE A PULL THROUGH SHARPENER                        Pull through sharpeners (not all but most) assume a one size fits all approach. The angle on the edge is different on all knives and most good quality Japanese knives have offset bevels so how can a plastic box with ceramic wheels know the difference. Even the adjustable ones are not well suited to all knives.                                    Electric pull through sharpeners remove way too much metal and shorten the life of your knife by years.                                    Ceramic wheel sharpeners tend to take chips and chunks out of thin Japanese blades.                                    A pull through sharpener will permanently damage any single sided blade like a yanagiba, deba, usuba                                    Because of the mechanics of use, it is impossible to apply the same amount of pressure throughout the blade. As a result, the edge tends to go out of shape changing the original blade profile.                                    There is absolutely no way you can sharpen a knife with a bolster using a pull through sharpener.                                    In some models there is a high danger of cutting yourself. We are not talking a little knick here and there, one of our customers has a scar 15 cm long from an early experience with a pull through sharpener.                                    When you eventually crack the shits and bring your knives to us for sharpening, it is very difficult to realign the blade.                If you bought your knives for long term use rather than as a short term consumable, it would be best to avoid the gimmicky gadgets available on the market.    What to expect and what not to expect from diamond sharpening stones    One of the most common arguments for using diamond sharpening plates is that they are flat and do not get dished during their working life. The first point is only partly true, as the flatness of the plates depends a great deal on the quality of the plate and the manufacturing method. But it is true that they do not become hollow during use, unlike other kinds of sharpening stone.    There are a number of different methods for producing diamond sharpening plates:                        In one method a block of aluminum or steel is machined flat and then impregnated with diamond chips. This method can produce the flattest surfaces. The disadvantages are the expense of this method, the difficulty of the process and the relatively high material costs. So this method is not often employed.                                    A second method involves impregnating thin steel plates with diamond chips. These thin plates are then glued to a flat block, usually aluminum. Here the different cutting, machining and polishing methods become important to the end results. If a laser is used, for instance, the heat of the process can deform the metal plates. These deformations can have a detrimental effect on the final product and can only be corrected by a powerful press when mounting the thinner diamond plate to the base. So other methods of cutting and machining the baseplates are often better. The thinner the diamond-surfaced plate, the easier it is to mount flat on a flat baseplate.                                    A plastic or copper foil is impregnated with diamond chips, and the back is coated with adhesive. These foils are very flexible and can be glued onto a variety shapes and base materials to fit individual needs and ideas. One of the downsides with these foils is that they are delicate. When sharpening tools and blades, it is easy to catch an edge or corner and cut through the foil, at best you will ruin the surface in just a small area.                We sell diamond sharpening plates both with and without baseplates because our customers have such a wide range of needs and ideas. For people often on the move, for instance, the weight and volume of tools becomes an important consideration, so that using just thin diamond plates without the weight of the baseplate is a welcome alternative. But this will inevitably result in a sharpening surface less flat than it could be. We also offer diamond-coated copper foils, which are very flexible and have an adhesive back.    Advantages of diamond sharpening plates:                        They allow quick removal of material for grinding out chips and changing the base bevel of plane irons and chisels.                                    Quick sharpening and material removal also in medium grit grades is another advantage.                                    Can be used for sharpening TC, HSS and PM steels, which are difficult or impossible to work using other types of stone.                                    The stones mostly keep their original shape, unlike other stones that wear with use and must be periodically re-flattened.                                    They can also be used as flattening blocks for Japanese water stones. We recommend the 400 grit plate for this application.                Disadvantages of diamond sharpening plates:                        When you need a very flat surface for really precise sharpening jobs, a freshly flattened Japanese water stone works better.                                    For honing, or putting a final clean edge on a tool, diamond sharpening plates are clearly not as good as sharpening stones because they simply cannot be made in the finer grit grades.                                    With a diamond plate you cannot produce a surface with a mirror finish, eg, on knife blades.                One other point regarding the useful working life of diamond plates. They cannot really be compared with sharpening stones, which are worn down by use, constantly revealing new, sharp particles. Diamond plates are much more like sandpaper, with a thin layer of abrasive fixed to a non-abrasive material. The diamond sharpening plates of course have a much longer working life than sandpaper, but the evolution is the same. At first, they feel very sharp indeed, but this lasts for only a short time and then there is a very long period of medium sharpness, and finally they don't really cut much at all. Be careful to buy plates with monocrystalline diamonds as this extends the period of medium sharpness. Keeping the surface of the diamond plates wet will also prolong their useful life!    How to use a ceramic honing rod to keep your knives sharp    One of the best tools that you can use to keep a keen edge on your knives between sharpenings is a   ceramic honing rod.   They are quite different from steel or diamond rods, which can grind a lot of steel off of your edge. As you use your knife, it develops tiny ‘burrs’ which are rough bits of the edge that have bent out of shape. Ceramic gently pushes them back into alignment, straightening the edge without removing steel unnecessarily. These means that your knife stays sharp much longer, without having to be sharpened as often.    Knifewear’s ceramic rods have a special design: the hilt acts as an angle guide when you place the spine of your knife along it. The skinnier side will set a 15 degree angle for Japanese blade, while the wider side will set a 22 degree angle for western-style knives.    To use the rod, place a folded rag on your cutting board and place the rod upright, with the tip on the towel. This will help to keep it in place while you’re pressing a sharp knife against it. Set the knife to the angle you prefer, and gently drag the edge along the ceramic from the heel to the tip, in a downward slicing motion. Switch to the other side of the rod and repeat the motion. Continue 10-20 times, alternating sides as you go. Honing like this twice per week (more for professionals) will ensure that your knife stays sharp for months or even years at a time.  

Дата Публикации: 12-07-22

What is a blind flange?

Описание: What is a blind flange? A blind flange is a solid flange as shown below. The purpose of these is to block off a section of pipe or a nozzle on a vessel that is not used. (A nozzle is typically a pipe coming out of a vessel and is usually flanged so it can be connected to valves or piping). Many times a nozzle will be blanked off with a blind flange for pressure tests in a plant, or simply because the customer does not need all the nozzles that were supplied on the tank. The best practice is to use a standard gasket for these blinds. Blind flanges, just like standard pipe flanges, can be raised face (RF) or flat faced (FF). If the flange is RF we would recommend a standard ring gasket that is appropriate for the service and/or test. If it is FF we would TYPICALLY use a full face gasket, because the most common reason the flange is FF is that it is not designed to handle the bending forces that result when using a ring gasket or a RF flange against the FF flange. Again, we treat a blind flange just like any other pipe flange. A common request for gaskets with a blind flange is for a gasket with no ID; a gasket with a solid center. The customer might ask for these solid gaskets with bolt holes or without. If the blind flange is a standard ASME flange, the OD of the gasket will be the same as the OD of the standard ring or standard full face gasket. Many times, the customer expects that the solid gasket will protect the blind flange from the fluid in the system. They might be trying to save money by using a carbon steel (CS) blind in chemicals that require a more expensive metal, so they want the gasket to keep the fluids away from the low cost blind flange. This practice of using a solid ID is NOT RECOMMENDED, however, for several reasons. ? The first is that the gasket will probably not completely stop the fluids from reaching the blind flange. Keep in mind that we do not publish zero leakage for test results such as the ASTM F37B Sealability; there is some small amount of permeation that occurs when gaskets are at low compressive loads, like they are in the ASTM F37B test, but especially when the center of the disc is under NO compressive load. ? Another issue is that the solid center of the gasket will be uncompressed and probably will be affected by the fluids. Fiber gaskets, such as Style 3000, etc, will often be damaged in the uncompressed area, even in fluids that are compatible with the gasket, including water. Fiber gaskets are simply not meant to be immersed in fluids with no compression. That means that the gasket may contaminate the process fluids when the uncompressed area swells or breaks apart. ? There is also a VERY IMPORTANT SAFETY ISSUE: Because the center, uncompressed portion of the gasket might be permeable over time, fluids and even fluid pressure can build up between the solid gasket disc and the blind flange. This is because the pressure will try to equalize on both sides of the solid gasket disc. This will even happen with a GYLON gasket, despite the very tight sealing properties of the GYLON gaskets. Remember the center is not under compressive loads. When the space behind the disc becomes filled with fluid, this fluid is under pressure. If the system is shut down and brought back to zero pressure, the fluid that is trapped cannot escape back through the solid disc fast enough. So when the bolts are loosened to remove the blind flange, liquids or gases can spray out of the connection. If this fluid is dangerous, toxic, or flammable, the mechanic can be in danger. For these reasons, GARLOCK recommends that gaskets for blind flanges be cut as standard rings or full face gaskets, and not with a solid center. Spectacle Blinds are another somewhat uncommon but important application for gaskets. A picture of a spectacle blind is shown below. The name comes from the fact that the assembly looks like eyeglasses, or “spectacles". These are normally used in piping systems, usually between two standard flanges, and are designed to block off a section of pipe. However these are used where the customer needs to block this connection off somewhat frequently. They are typically used where there is piping connected to both flanges, where you cannot simply drop a standard blind flange in, because the flanges cannot be pulled apart far enough to drop in the blind flange. In this case, the open side of the spectacle is used (with a gasket on each side) when the customer wants the piping sections connected and operating normally. Then they will remove bolts, and spin the blind side of the spectacle into the flanged connection, and install 2 new gaskets. The reasons these are built this way is that the spacing between the flanges and the piping is now the same whether the pipe is blanked off or open, because the open ring and solid blind are the same thickness. This is the easiest way to be able to blank off a connection and then open it without the issue of the having different spacing between the flanges. Forging vs. Casting: Which is Better for Shackles? This question, “Forging vs. Casting: Which is better?” is one that I have been asked many times when it comes to rigging products. To properly explore the answer, let’s first consider the process of each. Forging and casting are two very different manufacturing methods. When something is cast, the material is heated above its melting temperature and poured into a mold where it solidifies. When something is forged it is physically forced into shape while remaining in a solid state – although it is frequently heated. As an engineer, I have always known that forgings normally have less surface porosity, finer grain structure, higher tensile strength, better fatigue life/strength, and greater ductility than castings. In other words, forgings are generally better for shackles. The basics of why are pretty simple. When you melt metal to cast it, the grain size is free to expand. When it cools back to a solid, the grain structure is courser and more random, decreasing its strength. I did some research on the internet and found an excellent research paper* written by members of the Industrial & Manufacturing Engineering Department at the University of Toledo, shared by the Forging Industry Association. This paper compares a single type of product made both ways. Read it here. Forged parts had a 26% higher tensile strength than the cast parts. This means you can have stronger shackles at a lower part weight. Forged parts had a 26% higher tensile strength than the cast parts. This means you can have stronger shackles at a lower part weight. Forged parts have a 37% higher fatigue strength resulting in a factor of six longer fatigue life. This means that a forged shackle is going to last longer. Cast iron only has 66% of the yield strength of forged steel. Yield strength is an indicator of what load a shackle will hold before starting to deform. The forged parts had a 58% reduction in area when pulled to failure. The cast parts only had a 6% reduction in area. That means there would be much greater deformation before failure in a forged part. To further illustrate the point, see the below photos from our in-house testing: These forged CM shackles show significant deformities before failure. If you were hanging a load overhead from a shackle, wouldn’t you want that shackle to warn you before it failed? Or do you like surprises? All CM shackles are forged; and they’re forged right here in America at our Chattanooga, Tennessee Operations. Safer and made in America? I think that I will stick to forgings. What will you do? * The title of the research paper is “Fatigue Performance Comparison and Life Predictions of Forged Steel & Ductile Cast Iron Crankshafts” written by Jonathan Williams, Farzin Montazersadgh, and Ali Fatemi, Graduate Assistants and Professor, respectively, Mechanical, Industrial & Manufacturing Engineering Department, The University Of Toledo – Toledo, Ohio. CS Blind Flanges and Weld Neck Flange manufacturer in India Flanges are used to connect 2 ends of a pipe or to end a pipe. They are available in various materials. Carbon Steel Flanges are one such type of flange that is usually made up of carbon steel. This material provides properties such as resistance to corrosion, excellent durability, and finishing in goods. They are available in various types. For instance,Carbon Steel Blind Flanges are used to terminate the pipe. High grade raw material is used to manufacture these flanges. They have a carbon content in the range of 0.25% to 0.60%. Due to the high volume of carbon and manganese, the fabrication of the product is excellent and ductility is also good. There is another type of flange that is known as killed Carbon Steel Forged Flanges. They are destroyed in the melting process. Due to the addition of manganese, silicon, and aluminum during the production of steel, deoxidation takes place. Carbon Steel Plate Flanges are welded onto the pipe which helps in bolting and connecting one pipe to the other. It displays good ductility, and toughness. These Carbon Steel Pipe Flanges also work well in low temperatures. They are used in fuel and water pipelines. The cost of these flanges ranges between Rs 398 to Rs 689. To strengthen and harden the steel and cast iron alloy Carbon Steel Slip On Flanges are passed through a process known as quenching. They are used in various construction, engineering, and petrochemical industries. The outer diameter of the slip on flange is also welded. Carbon Steel Weld Neck Flanges have a neck extension at the end. This type of flange is directly buttwelded to the pipe to provide a natural connection. Carbon Steel Flanges manufacturers in India recommend the use of these flanges when the conditions are critical and severe. The short-lived experiment with rubber tires on railways For all their design innovations, railways still retain one fundamental weakness — they put metal wheels onto metal tracks. Not just inefficient as there is limited grip between two such smooth surfaces, but noisy as well. So why don’t they use something different? It won’t surprise you to learn that railway companies have tried. And sadly failed. It’s mainly a Frenchman we have to thank for the best attempt to deal with the metal upon metal, and that was tire magnate, Andre Michelin who upon returning from an unpleasant train trip instructed his engineers to develop something better. Unsurprisingly for a tire manufacturer, they came up with a tire for railways. The special pneumatic tyres, fitted with metal flanges in order to keep the coach on the rails, had a wooden hoop inside them so if they punctured, they only deflated slightly to prevent derailment. At the time it was claimed that this type of tyre had an adhesion three times greater than steel wheels, and so the test trains could accelerate faster and brake later than conventional steam trains of the era. The pneumatic tires absorbed shocks and bumps, and were considerably quieter in use — a boon it was said for passengers, but surely also for people living near to the railways. It also didn’t take too long for someone to think that if trains could run on road tires, why not combine the road and rail vehicles into one. And thus the Micheline Railcar was born — basically a bus that ran on railway tracks. Quieter than steam with its diesel engine, it could also be started up faster than a steam locomotive and didn’t need trained operators to handle it. Anyone able to drive a bus could manage the Micheline. Tests were carried out in France, but in 1932, a Micheline Train was brought to the UK for evaluation. It was tested by the LMS on the line between Bletchley and Oxford, but did not prove to be a success. There were other attempts — the Coventry Pneumatic Rail-Car, built by a Coventry car manufacturer for example. Which did have the advantage of looking exceptionally sleek as well. Despite all the claims at the time of long life for the tires, they did wear out quickly, and also where a train carriage of the time needed just four wheels, a comparable carriage fitted with pneumatic tyres could need as many as 20 wheels. The extra cost of building the carriage, and the ongoing maintenance meant the concept was doomed. It was the wrong sort of wheel on the tracks. On the 30th November 1951, a debate in Parliament asked why defunct railway lines couldn’t be bought back into use by combined rail-road trains, but no one seemed interested anymore, and the Beeching Cuts would have probably killed the idea off anyway. So to this day, we put up with steel on steel, and the inherent weakness that entails. Forged Wheels vs Cast Wheels When looking to purchase OEM Wheels, there are many different factors to consider. In addition to things like size and style, it is also important to understand the difference between forged wheels and cast wheels. This refers to the two main ways that OEM wheels are manufactured during the production phase. A forged wheel is manufactured from a billet, or a large square piece of solid metal. The billet is heated to extreme temperatures and pressurized to take its shape. This thermal cycle process causes forged wheels to be stronger than cast wheels due to grain refinement. Consistent forging makes for stronger structural integrity with less material compared to a cast wheel, however the process costs more, rendering forged wheels the more expensive option. Forged wheels offer several advantages. The manufacturing process results in a stronger wheel by eliminating cavities, porosity, and shrinkage. Due to its tighter grain structure, forged wheels are also mechanically stronger, ensuring better wear resistance over time. You also get better performance and handling because of this process. The cast wheel manufacturing process involves heating up aluminum until it reaches a molten state. The molten aluminum is then poured into a mold where it is cast into its final shape with the help of a vacuum. After the cast cools down, it is trimmed and drilled to perfection. The casting process is quick and inexpensive but has the disadvantage of rendering a weaker material than a forged wheel. In addition to the advantage of being the less expensive option, cast wheels offer other upsides. Casting wheels offers a wide range of alloys to choose from. There are also no limits to casting weight and the process makes it much easier to produce complicated parts. Contrary to popular belief, a properly cast wheel can weigh more than a forged wheel and the build quality is more than enough for street and light track use.  

Дата Публикации: 12-07-22

5 Green Building Blocks

Описание:  5 Green Building Blocks How sustainable your home is depends on how green the construction material is, says Nirthya Rajan. Using green building material while constructing your home is the easiest way to make it sustainable. Here's a list of five products made of components that are renewable and environmentally responsible. Fly ash bricks or FAB converts the industrial waste of fly ash into an effective building material. The manufacturing process uses less energy and the bricks come in uniform shapes and various sizes. As a building material it has gained importance in the construction sector in the recent past as it is light-weight, has higher strength (less breakage during transportation), offers high resistance to sound, has low water absorption and is a good thermal insulator. It also makes the job easier for electricians and plumbers as chiseling can be done with ease. FAB is used for load bearing walls and can result in making finer finishes with even surfaces. FABs are costlier than normal bricks by around 18 -25 per cent. However, on a larger scale, the cost of the project can be reduced as the dead load over the columns and beams are lesser, wastages minimal and they require less labour time. Autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC) is a derivative of fly ash that is combined with cement, lime and water and an aerating agent. AAC is produced as blocks and panels. It is an approved eco-friendly building material that comes from industrial waste and is made from non-toxic ingredients. With AAC, your construction process can be about 20 per cent faster. It weighs only about 50 per cent of a standard concrete block and possesses high thermal insulation and is acoustics-friendly. It also has better fire resistance than fly ash and is non-combustible. It’s non-allergic and hence maintains the quality of air within a building without changing its properties over time. Using AAC can reduce construction cost by about 2.5 per cent for buildings such as schools and hospitals and reduce the running costs of hotel and office buildings by to 30 to 40 per cent over time. Compressed earth blocks (CEB) have been in use for a long time and are made from clay, sand and cement. They are biodegradable and can be made locally from any soil with a proper mix of ingredients like sand and cement. It offers fire resistance and is sound proof. Building cost can go down by 15 per cent or more. CEBs are, however, not suitable for smaller homes and buildings. Insulate is a green roofing material with a base from silica obtained from industrial waste and developed using a unique formula containing fibourous polymer liquid. This permanent roof insulation material is cost effective, light weight and has wide area of applications. The thermal conductivity is 10 to 12 times lesser compared to normal brick bat reducing the heat transmission by 20 to 40 per cent. Insulite is termite and rodent proof and has high durability. It is also easy to apply and takes close to four times lesser time than brick bats to be completed. Particle boards commonly used as a material for flooring, roofing and furniture, have in the past few years come to replace solid wood as building material. Innovations such as the use of plantation timber, which form rapidly renewable resources instead of hard wood for their manufacturing, have made this material further sustainable. More economical than solid wood, these ‘green’ particle boards can help bring down building costs to a great extent. They are available in the thickness range of 2mm to 6mm. Particle boards have low moisture absorption, high internal bonding and dimensional stability. AAC Blocks, price, sizes: The new age building construction material for resilient structures By choosing eco-friendly construction materials for building your dream house, you are not just doing your bit to conserve the environment but also saving on your overall construction costs. Among the innovative construction materials used across the world, autoclaved aerated concrete blocks (AAC blocks or bricks) are considered superior to other conventional materials like burnt clay bricks that cause environmental hazards. The benefits of AAC blocks as an affordable and sustainable alternative to traditional building materials are being widely recognised in India. In this article, we explain AAC blocks and their advantages and disadvantages in house construction. AAC blocks are a precast, foam concrete, sustainable construction material made from aggregates of quartz sand, calcined gypsum, lime, portland cement, water and aluminium powder. After mixing and moulding, the concrete is autoclaved under heat and pressure and it thus gains its distinctive properties. AAC bricks are in high demand, owing to their high strength, load-bearing and thermal insulation properties. AAC block is used as a construction material for interior and exterior structures. The blocks may be coated with a stucco finish or with siding materials like veneer brick or vinyl siding. AAC blocks are also known as autoclaved aerated concrete blocks, which are one of the environment friendly and lightweight construction materials. Autoclaved Aerated Concrete Autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC) is made with fine aggregates, cement, and an expansion agent that causes the fresh mixture to rise like bread dough. In fact, this type of concrete contains 80 percent air. In the factory where it is made, the material is molded and cut into precisely dimensioned units. Cured blocks or panels of autoclaved aerated concrete are joined with thin bed mortar. Components can be used for walls, floors, and roofs. The lightweight material offers excellent sound and thermal insulation, and like all cement-based materials, is strong and fire resistant. In order to be durable, AAC requires some type of applied finish, such as a polymer-modified stucco, natural or manufactured stone, or siding. Key aspects of AAC, whether designing or building with it, are described below: Advantages Autoclaved aerated concrete combines insulation and structural capability in one material for walls, floors, and roofs. Its light weight/cellular properties make it easy to cut, shave, and shape, accept nails and screws readily, and allow it to be routed to create chases for electrical conduits and smaller-diameter plumbing runs. This gives it design and construction flexibility, and the ability to make easy adjustments in the field. Durability and dimensional stability. A cement-based material, AAC resists water, rot, mold, mildew, and insects. Units are precisely shaped and conform to tight tolerances. Fire resistance is excellent, with eight inch thick AAC achieving a four-hour rating (actual performance exceeds that and meets test requirements for up to eight hours). And because it is noncombustible, it will not burn or give off toxic fumes. The light weight means that R-values for AAC are comparable to conventional frame walls, but they have higher thermal mass, provide air tightness, and as just noted, are not combustible. That light weight also gives a high sound reduction for privacy, both from outside noises and from other rooms when used as interior partition walls.But the material does have some limitations. It is not as widely available as most concrete products, though it can be shipped anywhere. If it has to be shipped, its light weight is advantageous. Because it is lower strength than most concrete products or systems, in load-bearing applications, it must typically be reinforced. It also requires a protective finish since the material is porous and would deteriorate if left exposed. Both blocks and panels are available. Blocks are stacked similarly to conventional masonry, but with a thin-bed mortar, and panels are stood vertically, spanning full-story heights. For structural needs, grouted, reinforced cells and beams are placed within the wall section. (Concave depressions along vertical edges can create a cylindrical core between 2 adjacent panels.) For usual applications, a vertical cell is placed at corners, on either side of openings, and at 6- to 8-foot spacings along a wall. AAC averages about 37 pounds per cubic foot (pcf), so blocks can be placed by hand, but panels, because of their size, usually require a small crane or other piece of equipment. How to Start a Cement Brick Manufacturing Business? Are you thinking of starting a brick and cement manufacturing facility? If so, here's the complete information on the brick and cement manufacturing business. Industrialisation and rapid urbanisation in developing nations have resulted in the growth of construction projects and have created new opportunities for the concrete block, cement, and brick manufacturing market. Beginning an enterprise to manufacture cement and bricks could be beneficial if you have the exposure and financial needs. Let's look at the procedure. Did You Know? India's construction industry is the second largest after agriculture. In addition to being the largest direct and indirect creator of employment, the industry accounts for 8% of India's GDP. It employs nearly 4 crore people and creates more jobs every year. Business Plan The first stage is to develop an outline of your cement brick business plan. When you're sure you'd like to start cement brick factories, it is essential to implement your plan first. When drafting an enterprise plan, you must determine the business's strategy. The marketing, financial, human resources, and operational plans should be distinct and specific. You must outline the goals of your business before the time and take appropriate steps to attain these goals. It is essential to establish milestones for your business and develop an action plan to meet these goals. Once you have your plan in place, you are ready to take the next steps. Ideas for Starting and Making Money The cement brick industry has been generating results in recent times. The manufacturing of cement bricks is a lucrative opportunity for many job seekers. There are a lot of questions and doubts among the public on whether or not the manufacturing of bricks and cement could be a viable startup. Let's get deep into the specifics and explanations of the various questions that usually come up when you consider starting this industry. The most crucial factors you must be aware of are the costs of establishing a cement block factory or plant in India. Also, you must know the basic materials needed to manufacture the product and in-depth information about making cement bricks, including the cost of making machines for cement bricks. Finding the right site for your cement brick business is the most crucial aspect. When evaluating the location, identify the size and the amount of open space required to run the business. Brick manufacturing requires a large area to store the raw materials and maintain the temperature inside to be increased by the heat from the furnace. So, pick a big private area to set up the manufacturing of cement bricks. Key AAC Issues Today we are pleased to welcome seven speech-language pathology students from San Jose State University. As part of their Professional Issues course, they conducted a project identifying key issues regarding Augmentative and Alternative Communication (AAC). They share their findings in the post below. A major issue is that most paraprofessionals do not have the knowledge and/or experience to facilitate and communicate with students that utilize AAC in a school setting. Approximately 40% of state classrooms have more special education paraprofessionals than full time staff such as teachers (Giangreco, Suter, & Doyle, 2010). Paraprofessionals are often communication partners for children with complex communication needs (CCN) in the classroom and various school settings (recess, lunch, after school care, play). Research indicates communication partners frequently exhibit actions that restrict the communication of children using AAC (Douglas, Light, & McNaughton, 2013). Two specific training program strategies that have been researched with paraprofessionals in a school setting are the IPLAN and MORE strategy. The IPLAN strategy includes: Identifying activities for communication, Providing means for communication, Locating and providing vocabulary, arranging the environment, and the use of iNteraction strategies. The MORE strategy includes: Modeling AAC, Offering opportunities for communication, Responding to communication, and Extending communication. This training has shown to be effective after solely two hours of training. Research has shown that a two hour training on these strategies has increased the amount of communication opportunities presented by paraprofessionals and the children’s number of communication turns (Douglas et al., 2013). These strategies are outlined, researched, and explained in depth in the article (see complete reference in the reference list below). Finding an AAC specialist: The American Speech-Language Hearing Association (ASHA). This organization has a separate group (SIG 12) for AAC. ASHA can send you a list of SIG 12 members in your local area who can provide these trainings. Additionally, the organization can send you “Preferred Practice Parameters,” which are standards that guide speech-language pathologists in preparing and administering AAC services.            

Дата Публикации: 12-07-22

How Industrial

Описание: How Industrial Glue Guns Are Used You may be familiar with hot glue guns from your high school home-economics class. You may remember weird, cylindrical, solid-but-flexible, sticks of translucent glue that you placed into a small hot glue gun. The gun would heat the glue, and you could use the hot glue to adhere pieces of fabric together (or to make other craft projects). Hot glue also has the name of hot melt adhesives, which is the term typically used in industrial settings (or just “hot melt” for short). Indeed, what you may not know is that hot glue has many more uses than craft projects. Many industries use hot melt as part of the manufacturing and assembly process. In industrial settings, you are doing a lot more than sticking fabric together. Industrial hot glue is used for many different and sometimes precision jobs for various industries. For these bigger jobs, companies require industrial glue guns and products. These are not your little, home-economics-style, glue guns. These are bigger, with more power and more capability. Let’s learn more about the industries that use hot melt, how it is used and which types of hot melt are best for each job. Hot melt or hot glue Hot melt or hot glue is designed to be melted with a glue gun. This glue is sometimes called thermoplastic adhesive. Hot glue guns use continuous heating elements to melt the adhesive. In industrial settings, industrial hot glue and industrial hot glue guns give many advantages over solvent-based adhesives or other fasteners. Industrial hot glue can dry strong and quickly, reducing the time delay before the product is ready. Hot melt also cures quickly. Industrial hot melt has a long shelf-life, and after use, it can be disposed of without any special precautions. Hot melt also has the advantage of not losing any thickness when drying. This makes it especially helpful in some commercial projects (such as woodworking). There are many types of industrial hot melt and industrial hot melt guns to match different needs in various industries. There are even hot melt adhesives that can be applied by dipping or spraying. Industrial hot melt has properties that should be considered for the specific job you intend it for. One of these is the bond formation temperature, which is the minimum temperature at which the adhesive can create bonds. In industrial settings, it is also important to consider the potential life stability, because the hot melt is often molten for longer time periods when working in industry. The term tack refers to the stickiness of the hot melt. When you are working with industrial hot glue, you have a certain amount of time during which the hot melt is tacky before it sets. The open time tells you how long you can work to set a bond. The set time tells you how long it takes for the bond to form to an acceptable strength. Hot melt adhesives and electronics From the server that keeps your business website up and running to the smartphone that keeps you connected when you’re on the go to the handheld gaming device that keeps the kids entertained, electronics are a huge part of our everyday lives. And adhesives play a big role in helping ensure that the electronics we count on every day are long-lasting and ready to stand up to real-world demands we place on them. In many industries — such as labeling and packaging — the job of an adhesive is to simply bond one material to another. But the electronics industry counts on adhesives to do much more than provide a strong seal between two substrates. For example, one common consideration in the world of electronics adhesives is choosing an adhesive that can stand up to vibration. When affixing extremely delicate wiring to a motherboard or in other fragile circuit board situations, we would recommend using a hot glue adhesive to hold the component tightly in place without jeopardizing the overall quality or health of the electronics themselves — a process also known as potting or overmolding. After using a hot melt adhesive to hold the electronic component in place, many electronics manufacturers opt to follow up with a neutral cure silicon rubber to create a long-term bond. While the hot melt glue creates a great short-term solution for holding the component in place and resisting vibration for month or years, silicon rubber provides a bond intended to last decades when applied correctly. Unlike other industries where manually applying adhesives with glue bottles or glue sticks may be an option, the electronics industry requires more automated solutions for more consistent application. Commonly used industrial glue machines for electronics, including hot glue guns, can help make quick work of the process. Additionally, professional-quality glue guns offer a precise application with fewer drips and strings that can easily damage sensitive electronic equipment. Choosing the right hot melt glue Glue guns are an effective and convenient tool for fastening various materials. Before selecting a glue gun, you need to know what type of hot melt glue you will need for your project. Rapid glue sticks are grouped according to the three most common applications. Arts and crafts These types of glue are perfect for people who like crafting and creating things themselves. You can choose between universal glue, which is suitable for bonding most materials, and coloured glue for decoration. There are two different dimensions glue stick: 7 mm diameter glue sticks provide a low glue flow and a thin glue jet for extra precision. They are good for decorating and when working with small parts, such as model building. Oval glue sticks are for heat-sensitive materials such as polystyrene, silk, balloons and glass.These glue sticks have a lower temperature, up to 130 degrees. Glue for creating and decorating Fix and repair These glue types are suitable for various home projects. For example, you can use them to fasten cables or mend shoes and china. White, black and transparent universal adhesive are available, as well as special adhesives for specific materials, such as textiles, wood and plastic cable. Special adhesives give stronger adhesion between the components being bonded together. The glue sticks are always 12 mm in diameter. Both short and long variants are available. Short glue sticks are good if you need a small amount of glue for your project, or if you need to change glue type while working. Glue for fix and repair Installation These glue types are the right choice for those who have major projects that require a lot of glue. For example, you can glue skirting boards, panelling and architrave, install cables and seal cardboard boxes. White and transparent universal adhesive are available, as well as special adhesives for specific uses, such as textiles, wood and plastic cable. Special adhesives give stronger adhesion between the components being bonded together. The glue sticks always have a diameter of 12 mm and are sold in a large package. How to Use Jumper Cables What could be worse than walking out to your car after a long day of work only to have a dead battery. Maybe you left an interior light on or your battery has simply reached the end of its life. Either way, car batteries don't typically give you signs of trouble until it's too late, and then your car just won't start. So no matter how old (or new) your car is, owning a working set of jumper cables — and knowing how to use them — is a must. First you need the right pair of cables. When you really need them, any set is better than none at all, but if you're buying new jumper cables, Popular Mechanics suggests ones that are 4 to 6 gauge and at least 20 feet (6 meters) long. Those extra-long cables will come in handy and make connecting batteries easier if you can't put two cars directly next to each other. Also look for jumpers with thicker cables and heavy clamps. They'll be more durable and last longer. Of course, when it comes time to jump your battery, it's very important to handle the cables properly. Always keep the red and black clamps from touching, and be sure the cables stay apart when you're getting set up — especially once you have the clamps connected to a live battery. If the clamps touch when they're "hot," it could short out one or both cars and will definitely create some sparks. Since using jumper cables incorrectly can be dangerous, follow every step precisely. Most jumper cables have an instruction card or label so you can make sure you're connecting them the right way. Connect the Cables Begin by parking the vehicle with the good battery next to the car with the dead battery. Open the hoods of both cars and locate their batteries. If the batteries are covered by plastic hoods, remove the hoods so the battery posts are exposed. Locate the positive (+) and negative (-) posts. The positive post may be red, but it's not always, so it's best to look for the plus or minus sign to determine the post's polarity. (Before you attach the clamps, be sure to remove any dirt from the posts.) Next, get out your jumper cables and connect one of the red clamps to the positive (+) post of the dead battery. Make sure that the clamp is firmly connected. Clamp the matching end of the same cable to the positive (+) post on the working battery. Connect one of the black clamps to the negative (-) post of the good battery. Make sure the clamp is firmly connected. But instead of connecting the other end of the cable to the negative post of the dead battery, clamp it to a bare, metal surface on the engine of the dead car — like a bolt or a screw. This will provide grounding for the jump start. Car Dent Pullers: Do DIY Dent Removal Kits Really Work? Little dents in your car are frustrating. Sometimes, a ding in a car park can cause noticeable damage to the bodywork. Many car owners are turning to car dent pullers to try and repair the damage themselves. Dent removal kits pull dents from the outside of the car, unlike Paintless Dent Removal techniques, which push dents out from the inside. Car dent pullers are widely available and cheap to buy, but do they work? Before you attempt a DIY dent removal, read our advice on the types of car dent pullers available and when to choose a professional dent repair service. Car dent pullers lift dents out of car bodywork and straighten the metal out. There are two main types of pullers: suction and glue kits. Suction dent pullers work like plungers, you attach it to the dent and pull it up towards you to remove the dent. Glue dent puller kits involve gluing a flat pulling tab directly onto the dent. The pulling tab has a screw function, so you twist the handle to pull the tab up and away from the car. Other kits attach the pulling tab to a pole. Then you slide a weight along the pole, like a bicycle pump, to provide the upward pressure. Please note: We do not advise you to use any dent puller kit that requires you to drill holes into the dent. Dent pullers only work on shallow dents that are positioned on a flat, flexible surface. They can improve the appearance of car dents but are unlikely to create a perfect finish. Unfortunately, DIY dent pullers will not work on deep, angular dents or damage along the edges of bodywork. Dents in areas of thick metal are very difficult to remove at home.

Дата Публикации: 12-07-22